Chopard Baselworld 2019 part IIII L.U.C XP Sheer purity

Chopard Baselworld 2019 part IIII L.U.C XP Sheer purity

Chopard Baselworld 2019 part IIII


Sheer purity


Elementary without being basic, devoid of artifice and yet brimming with contrasts, the new L.U.C XP timepiece embodies the purity of design that characterises the L.U.C. collection. Its natural, casual elegance lies in the details. The texture of its dial, the virgin wool of its strap, the brilliance of its hour-markers, along with its slender shape, all reflect the tradition of Savile Row tailors. For the contemporary gentleman, L.U.C XP is like a blue cashmere flannel suit, worn with a Sea Island cotton shirt and an Ancient Madder tie: a modern classic for men of taste.


Two hands, no seconds, no date, just the essentials. L.U.C XP is the quintessence of Chopard Haute Horlogerie. Attired in steel and enhanced by a satin blue dial with rose gold accents, this ultra-thin, ultra-chic timepiece is much more sophisticated than one might think at first glance.




The L.U.C XP also expresses itself through its assertive character. There is something nonchalant about this intense blue dial, whose depth is enhanced by the texture of its surface. Deeply satin-brushed, it adopts a modern matt finish, while the applied hour-markers, two hands and Arabic numerals shine with a delightfully warm glow. Thus, apparently stripped down yet endowed with a wealth of substance, the L.U.C XP dial both deceives and delights the eye, like a semi-plain fabric, a miniature houndstooth motif, a tone-on-tone Prince of Wales check.


For the third consecutive year, Chopard is presenting a timepiece from its couture capsule collections. L.U.C XP comes fitted with a merino wool strap, made from a breed of sheep renowned for the finesse of the yarn it produces. In addition, a cognac alligator leather strap with brown alligator lining is included. Dyed in deep blue, the braided fabric is a natural follow-on from the blue cashmere strap launched in 2017 on a previous L.U.C XP model and the embossed leather one introduced in 2018 with the L.U.C Quattro.




L.U.C XP is equipped with an ultra-thin L.U.C Calibre 96.53-L, a movement finished in accordance with the high standards upheld by Chopard Manufacture. Its automatic winding is carried out by an engraved tungsten micro rotor, the substantial weight of which optimises the winding power. It feeds two superposed barrels, based on Chopard’s patented Twin architecture. Together, they guarantee the L.U.C XP a generous 58 hours of autonomy.

Technical details


in stainless steel




Stainless steel

Total diameter                                                                                 40.00 mm

Thickness                                                                                         7.20 mm

Water resistance                                                                            30 metres

Stainless steel crown with L.U.C logo                                 5.00 mm

Vertical satin-brushed flanks and interhorn spaces, polished bezel and caseback

Glare-proofed sapphire crystal

Transparent sapphire exhibition back




Self-winding movement                                                                   L.U.C 96.53-L

Number of components                                                                          172

Total diameter                                                                                       27.4 mm

Thickness                                                                                                3.30 mm

Number of jewels                                                                                   27

Frequency                                                                                               28,800 vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve                                                                                       58 hours

Two barrels –Twin® technology

Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif

Black engravings


Dial and hands:


Navy blue dial, vertical satin-brushed finishes

Applied rose gold-plated numerals and hour-markers

Applied rose gold-plated Dauphine-fusée hands


Functions and displays:


Central display of the hours and minutes


Strap and buckle:


Stainless steel pin buckle

Blue merino wool strap with brown alligator leather lining, hand-sewn

Second strap included, in cognac-coloured alligator leather with brown alligator leather lining, hand-sewn


Ref. 168592-3002 – in stainless steel

U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony

When Artistic Crafts convey the magnificently fleeting beauty of

 a bouquet of peonies


Each year, like a precious rendezvous with beauty-loving collectors, Chopard creates a timepiece whose muse is the peony: L.U.C XP Esprit by Fleurier Peony. For this new eight-piece limited edition, the Maison called on its Mains d’art (artistic hands). The dial is a dazzling combination of crafts such as gold engraving, transfer printing and mother-of-pearl cutting; while its movement – a 35 mm L.U.C Calibre 96.23-L. designed and produced by Chopard Manufacture – is entirely decorated with floral engraving, a now rare art that is perfectly mastered by Chopard artisans. 


On the purple dial of the L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony watch, eight peonies in pink monochrome shades reveal their fragile beauty. Featuring generous petals highlighted with white mother-of-pearl, they are like a silent burst of magnificence. There is no daintier, more symbolic flower than a peony that blooms in May. It has the elegance to bloom when spring arrives and to vanish before summer, making itself all the more desirable by leaving us only one month to enjoy its beauty. The L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony timepiece is an ode to the ephemeral. It was up to Chopard, the Artisan of Emotions, to reproduce all its subtle charms.


A favourite flower of Chopard co-president Caroline Scheufele, the peony is also one of the most popular flowers in China, where its presence dates back to the 9th century BC. Cherished by painters and sung by poets, the peony was considered as the queen of flowers, an emblem of wealth and honour, which is symbolised when portrayed in a painting. It was also associated with the imperial family.


This incomparably beautiful bloom is a motif that the Manufacture honours year after year, interpreting the delicate flower in various ways by adopting a 35 mm-diameter ladies’ L.U.C XP watch for women as a medium of expression. This is a perfect opportunity for the Manufacture to highlight all the crafts that are mastered in its workshops and one, as ephemeral as the blooming of a peony, that collectors will not want to miss.


All the delicacy of Fleurisanne engraving


The movement side reveals the L.U.C Calibre 96.-23-L, entirely hand-engraved using the delicate art of Fleurisanne engraving. This decorative technique enjoyed its heyday in the 19th century, when artisans expressed their dedication to perfection by engraving movements with dainty scrolling patterns and floral motifs. The Maison Chopard consequently decided to restore the noble reputation of this patient and accurate art form.


Discovering the engraved movement of an 1870 carriage watch inspired Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele to revive a rare craft and convinced him to engrave some of the L.U.C. movements in the Fleurier style. In the decoration workshops, a woman with truly golden hands offered to teach herself this subtle art, which she now masters perfectly. It is to her that we owe the delicate engraved peonies adorning the movement of this new L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony timepiece.



Chopard’s in-house approach to watch manufacturing

The new L.U.C. XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony has taken this exceptional path, notably leading it to be powered by the L.U.C Calibre 96-23-L equipped with patented Twin technology, meaning two stacked coaxial barrels delivering a 65-hour power reserve. Housing such a self-winding movement within an ultra-thin 7.50 mm case is a true feat. It was made possible by an ingenious construction with a micro-rotor that may be admired through the exhibition back of this fascinating timepiece issued in 18-carat rose gold. The fruit of meticulous craftsmanship, these exquisite watches echo the aspirations of the most discerning aesthetes and express a clever blend of artisanal savoir faire, distinction and emotions.


Technical details

L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony

Eight-piece limited edition in 18-carat rose gold



18-carat rose gold

Total diameter                                                                       35 mm

Thickness                                                                              7.70 mm

Water resistance                                                                  30 metres

18-carat rose gold crown with L.U.C logo                  5.00 mm

Upper crystal with glare-proofing treatment

Bezel, flanks, lugs and case middle set with diamonds

Polished exhibition back with glare-proofed sapphire crystal

Hand-engraved caseback



Mechanical self-winding movement                           L.U.C 96.23-L

Winding via in 22-carat gold

Number of components                                                      168

Total diameter                                                                       27.40 mm

Thickness                                                                              3.50 mm

Number of jewels                                                                 29

Frequency                                                                             28,800 vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve                                                                     65 hours

Two-tone movement in 18-carat rose gold – rhodium-plated after engraving

Hand-crafted Fleurisanne engraving – peony décor

Two barrels – Twin technology

Balance-spring with flat terminal curve


Dial and hands:

Hand-painted dial with peony décor

Peony made of white mother-of-pearl and butterfly engraved in 18-carat rose gold

Gilded Dauphine fusée-type hours and minutes hands



Central display of the hours and minutes


Strap and buckle:

Strap in pink alligator leather

Polished pin buckle in diamond-set 18-carat rose gold


Ref. 131944-5004 – in 18-carat rose gold

Eight-piece limited edition – Boutiques exclusive


            L.U.C XPS Twist QF

An original angle on Haute Horlogerie


The chic aura exuded by contemporary gentlemen is based on respect for rules, as well as refined transgression of the latter. With its offset small seconds appearing at 7 o’clock, a signature feature of the Twist series within the L.U.C collection, the L.U.C XPS Twist QF in ethically certified “Fairmined” white gold – issued in a 250-piece limited edition – opts for controlled eccentricity and elegant asymmetry. A slim fit on the wrist, rich textures, high-quality production and an ethical dimension: nothing is lacking here, not even a touch of extravagance.


Haute Horlogerie conventions are based on symmetry and aesthetic order that elicit an instinctive visual response. L.U.C XPS Twist QF offers another take. Like a woven cashmere necktie that reveals its underside, this timepiece has fun with the offset positions of the crown and small seconds, while incorporating all the fundamental qualities of the L.U.C collection. By taking its place within most of Chopard’s cherished certification programmes, the L.U.C XPS Twist QF displays a wealth of elegant characteristics. Fleurier Quality Foundation, chronometer certification, a case in ethically certified “Fairmined” gold: this timepiece goes the extra mile beyond aesthetic prowess to embody the most accomplished craftsmanship.


Visible L.U.C codes

Within the aesthetic vocabulary of the L.U.C collection, the textures adorning dial surfaces are invariably centred on the L.U.Chopard logo, positioned at noon. Here, the visual focal point shifts to the small seconds at 7 o’clock. The effect of literally drawing the gaze elsewhere is amplified by the circular satin-brushed motif radiating out from this subdial and across the entire blue-grey dial surface of the L.U.C XPS Twist QF. Another transgressive feature is the fact that this is the only model in the L.U.C collection without Arabic numerals at noon, since the figure 12 is replaced by a double facetted hour-marker.


The words Qualité Fleurier appear beneath the name L.U.C, the spot where the Chronometer inscription is generally placed. With this new 250-piece limited edition, Chopard is giving fresh impetus to the dynamic of the Fleurier Quality Foundation which it helped to create.


Mechanical excellence

Calibre 96.26-L driving the 250 timepieces in the L.U.C XPS Twist QF limited edition is a variation on Calibre 96.01-L offset by 30 degrees. Like the original movement, it is distinguished by its slim 3.3 mm size, which in turn meant this new model could be housed in an exceptionally thin case. Its self-winding mechanism is powered by an engraved 22-carat gold micro-rotor the high inertia of which enables optimal efficiency. Calibre 96.26-L powers two stacked barrels based on Chopard’s patented Twin structure. Together, they guarantee 65 hours of running time, an exceptional feat for an ultra-thin timepiece, and enable this calibre to beat with chronometer-certified precision. Its finishes are also particularly sophisticated, in that the aesthetic criteria comply with the technical specifications of Fleurier Quality Foundation certification.


Technical details

L.U.C XPS Twist QF

250-piece limited edition

in ethically certified “Fairmined” 18-carat white gold



18-carat white gold

Total diameter                                                                       40.00 mm

Thickness                                                                              7.70 mm

Water resistance                                                                  30 metres

18-carat white gold crown                                                5.00 mm

offset at 4 o’clock with L.U.C logo

Vertical satin-brushed flanks and inter-horn spaces

Polished bezel and case-back

Glareproofed sapphire crystal

Exhibition back



Mechanical self-winding                                                  L.U.C 96.26-L

Number of components                                                        172

Total diameter                                                                      27.40 mm

Thickness                                                                              3.30 mm

Number of jewels                                                                   29

Frequency                                                                             25,200 vph (3.5 Hz)

Power reserve                                                                      65 hours

Two barrels –Twin® technology

Winding via a 22-carat gold winding rotor

Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif

Chronometer certified (COSC)

Fleurier Quality Foundation certified (FQF)


Dial and hands:

Dial with satin-brushed sunburst motif centred on the small seconds, blue-grey galvanic treatment

Rhodium-plated Dauphine fusée-type hours and minutes hands

Rhodium-plated Dauphine fusée-type small seconds hand


Functions and displays:

Central display of the hours and minutes

Offset small seconds at 6 o’clock

Semi-instantaneous aperture-type date display


Strap and buckle:

Hand-sewn matt blue-grey plant-dyed CITES-certified alligator leather strap, with cognac-coloured alligator leather lining

18-carat white gold pin buckle



Ref. 161945-1001- in 18-carat ethically certified “Fairmined” white gold

250-piece limited edition


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